Double Trouble III

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Julia Heuse, discussing:
Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016

Devine meets Leigh Bowery. Drag, clubwear, circus, disco, stripes, fur, electrocuted wigs on clowns. The 90s meeting precise draping and sharp cuts. I wanna be a fetish clown (venus in furs) drowning in pennies from the past, too.

Disco freaks, the miss- and mis-guided experiment of crossing John Waters with Donna Summer and having all derivates perform in a suburban cabinet of curiosities. It is 'Aliens' in sequin gowns and Stephen King's 'It' in a beauty pageant. Beauty prevails.

1. Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016
2. Leigh Bowery 1961-1994
3. Terence Koh Untitled (White Late), 2006
4. Anish Kappor Untitled, 1995
5. Tod Browning Freaks, 1931
6. Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin Björk, 2011
7. Stephen King It, 1990
8. Gareth Pugh Spring/Summer 2016


Double Trouble II

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Tomas C. Toth, discussing:
Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016

Slashed and bound she keeps the chic. Out of work the distracted hair hides calmly under a bunker hat - shame under the rim. Is it really that she is frivolous or under attack? There are no scars under Fontana’s slashes and torn down sleeves, while rug ridden knees stay well concealed. She confuses with hues and forms of photographic remakes à la Morandi while disappearing in the ocher dust of schrapnel bombs. The real treat comes at home while she puts on her shoulders the ‘Artist’s Breath’ unrolling the curtains to the view of rolled up body bags.

All I ever wanted, all I ever needed, was nothing I deserved, and nothing I received. Holding on to the misery and tragical loss of a legend. Giving way to circus clowns and pantomime. Pantomiming fashion. It’s one of those performances without words. A silent movie for German tourists in Milan. Someone please pull the Paglialunga plug.

1. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016
2. Sigalit Landau Barbed Hula, 2000
3. Oliver Laric Versions (Missile Variations), 2010
4. Filippo De Pisis Amanti, 1931
5. Grace Jones Warm Leatherette, 1980
6. Paul McCarthy Santa (with Butt Plug), 2002
7. Pablo Picasso Pierrot, 1918
8. Jil Sander Spring/Summer 2016


Double Trouble

A 'False Encyclopaedia' double feature with Ibai Gorriti, discussing:
Prada Spring/Summer 2016

A body performing a woman. Sorry. I'm late. I didn't want to come. A garment performing an outfit. Sorry. I look horrible today. A face performing a mood. Sorry. Can we meet another day instead? Exploring the uncomfortable. Questioning taste. Celebrating the forgettable. Surveying ugliness. An array of clothes to be suffered on your first day at work. A collection of feminine pains asking to be decoded. Is that you Miuccia? Is it even fashion week?

Earrings like architecture, coats like paintings, lips like photography. This time, Miuccia Prada played an interdisciplinary theorist. Her true self, maybe, for the very first time. Re-assuring the essence and coolness and originiality that springs to my keyword mind. Who would not want to own a contemporary art wardrobe.

1. Prada Spring/Summer 2016
2. Sotheby's Memphis La Collection Karl Lagerfeld, 1991
3. Hotel Okura Tokyo, 1962-2015
4. Another Magazine Miuccia Prada, 2008
5. C.DM.B Architects Desert House, 2003
6. Marilyn Minter Black Orchid, 2012
7. Gerhard Richter Strip, 2011
8. Prada Spring/Summer 2016



Petar Petrov Fall/Winter 2007

For your information. For Petar Petrov. The single leg trouser. Or the positive/negative trousers. One would only and always and ever only wear this thing. With and without undergarments. For me, myself and all the single ladyboys.


Who's That Girl!

MM6 Spring/Summer 2016

From post-traumatic stuffed animals (Paul McCarthy) to sequined boy toys and dolls. Dreams are my reality. And it has just happened that men will wear MM6. This team is good.