20150720

Fashion Charts XXIII

or 'Something like a Spring/Summer 2016 trend report'

1. Power Bottoms (as seen at Vivienne Westwood, Xander Zhou, Moschino)
A new hem line is no hem line. The new trouser shape is no trouser shape. Briefs, put briefly. Shiny, tiny, revealing.


2. Sexotism (as seen at Xander Zhou, Thom Browne, Louis Vuitton)
Dresses for a new gaysianetic Japonism. With Asian silk brocade and tabi clogs, covered in dragons, birds and the Fuji mountains.


3. Little White Number (as seen at Acne Studios, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Gucci)
From boyhood to bed, to the streets, and straight back to bed. Made up (knitted) twin set clothes for making out and staying in.


4. Topless Volume (as seen at Hood By Air, Duckie Brown, J.W. Anderson)
Blown-up wide leg trousers that demand full-on attention, best worn by (almost) topless hookers in heels and latex later.


5. Perverse Touch (as seen at Kenzo, Matthew Miller, Hood By Air)
Three-dimensional fabric manipulations that scream for tactile harassment of their wearer. Scruffy pyramids, crinkly wrinkles and vulgar ruffles.

Trends do not exist anymore. But familarities.

20150707

Granularity XIV


















Dior Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2015 vs. Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2016

The Raf Sandior universe is a hermeneutic one. This one was all about the chain. Medieval monks and fetish princesses in chain mail, perforated coats and fence pattern knitwear. Joined as pairs, his and hers was an extreme confrontation of social classes and status to climax in romance when the princess realizes that the monk is a prince.

Image credits Style.com

20150706

Antisocial Discotek










LAZOSCHMIDL Spring/Summer 2016

An aesthetic exploration of teenage escapism. An introvert place for coming out and coming-out of age. A cocktail of sexotism and fear. Textures and colours misused as drugs.

Image credits Paul Mpagi Sepuya & Valter Törsleff

20150626

Candy, Partly Unwrapped



Maison Margiela Spring/Summer 2016

Advertisement scrap tops and scrunched jackets worn as skirts. Classic Margiela with a slit, suits with studs. Trousers were split in half, the front panel worn as apron. Everything was good.

Image credits Style.com

20150624

RAFGIELA




Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2016

Another renaming. A history of renamings. An archive of remaking. Raf Simons to Raf Sander to Raf Sandior to Rafgiela Sandior. Face veil masks in tablecloth. Dark brown flares and cropped knits. Retro without futurism. Tribute to disappeared heroes. Building his own country on countryside fashion.

Teenage boy growing up between sex, disco and farm houses. Chicken feathers and liquid ecstasy. Masturbation via strangulation. History repeats itself and his universe is, as we have learned, a hermeneutic one.

Image credits Nowfashion